The thirties were on Phoebe Philo’s mind while creating this collection, while looking to women like Hannah Hoch and Lee Miller who were key figures in the Dada and surrealist art worlds, expressing radical measures like wearing men’s clothing.
The show featured sleek, thirties-styled tailoring and double-breasted coats. The first pieces displayed were a series of coats with white buttons, well received as unique despite the simplicity. Her looks encompassed a rich variety including ribbed knits, high-waist tailored pants and A-line skirts. Masculine elements were also revealed in the show through a couple of oversized men’s-styled trousers.
Philo emphasized the importance of nature with a lush greenery set sprouting along the catwalk. The clothes themselves had a bursting with life sensation with feathering and fraying detail. The earrings and platform sandals were notable accessories throughout the show.
The show revealed Philo’s experience in creating precision and balance in every look. The subtle fierceness of the Céline collection may be Philo’s response to the environment in which she works, pointing to the fact that she is still a woman in a world of men.